Man Luo

Date of Award

2024

Document Type

Thesis - Open Access

Degree Name

Master of Arts (MA)

Department

Fine and Decorative Art and Design

First Advisor

Agnes Berecz

Second Advisor

Maria Sancho-Arroyo

Abstract

This thesis delves into the intricate interplay between Hollywood's Golden Age and the evolution of the jewelry industry, examining the dynamic relationship from three distinct angles. It first traces the historical lineage of the jewelry industry, spotlighting the American naturalization of European jewelry houses such as Mauboussin. Their involvement in Hollywood was enabled by the technological advancements within the film industry, and the creation of on-screen icons like Marlene Dietrich, collectively orchestrated the course of jewelry trends. This dynamic interplay significantly influenced the cultural and aesthetic zeitgeist during Hollywood's Golden Age. In the following section, the study delves into the distinctive strategies invented and adopted by industry players as they adapted to the dynamic cultural and economic landscape. This involves an examination of the ascendancy of costume jewelry, propelled by the innovative practices of Joseff of Hollywood, and the emergence of bespoke fine jewelry popularized by renowned jewelers such as Paul Flato and Verdura. Lastly, the research broadens its lens to assess the influential role of prominent American jewelry houses, notably Tiffany & Co. and Harry Winston. Their strategic alliances with Hollywood and their involvement in the symbolic transfer of cultural heritage played a fundamental role in shaping the course of the jewelry industry during the Hollywood Golden Age.

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